What to do when an orchid is flooded, what is the danger of waterlogging and how to properly irrigate a flower?

What to do when an orchid is flooded, what is the danger of waterlogging and how to properly irrigate a flower?

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In nature, the orchid grows in tropical rainforests, so many growers mistakenly believe that the more water when irrigated, the better. As a result, due to an excess of moisture, the leaves become lethargic, wrinkled, pseudobulbs turn yellow and die off, flowers and buds fall off and the plant dies.

Next, we will tell you why the bay of a plant is dangerous and how to understand that it is waterlogged, how to prevent this. And you will also learn how to eliminate the consequences of improper care.

Why is the bay of a plant dangerous and how to understand that it is waterlogged?

Signs of a bay orchid are:

  • lethargy, wrinkled leaves or their softness;
  • yellowing and dying off of pseudobulbs;
  • falling of flowers and buds;
  • the formation of mold on the soil;
  • the orchid "staggers" in the pot, because rotten roots can no longer hold it;
  • spores or algae are visible on the inner walls of the pot.

The problem is that it will take a long time before signs of gulf show in the orchid's appearance.

Moisture stagnation is the "hidden killer" of the orchid. Rotting and dying off of the roots occurs gradually, therefore, from above, the appearance of the plant does not change immediately.

If the orchid is grown in a transparent pot, then it can be determined by the state of the root system that it is being poured:

  • whole areas become threadlike;
  • the roots darken strongly;
  • damage or even mold is visible.

It is important not only to determine the overflow, but also to know what to do with such a plant further.

Step by step instructions: what to do?

If such a flower was bought in a store

If it looks like the flower you bought from the store is overflowed, you need to do the following:

  1. The first step is to carefully remove the orchid from the pot. For convenience, you can slightly dig in the ground at a distance of about 7 cm from the root.
  2. Examine the roots by removing damp or, worse, moldy soil.
  3. If you find rotten roots, remove them, for example, with garden shears. Rinse out the rest. If only partial rot is found, then the dead area must also be cut off.
  4. Sprinkle the slices with ground cinnamon (yes, that same seasoning) or crushed activated carbon. This is necessary for disinfection and prevention of disease.
  5. If traces of mold were found, then the plant must additionally be held for several minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
  6. Leave the orchid in any empty glass container for 24 hours until a crust forms on the damaged areas.
  7. Prepare a new pot. Pour the substrate into it (preferably a ready-made store), and immerse the plant in it so that the roots fit freely.
  8. If you decide to use an old pot, then pre-disinfect it: wash it with soda and soap, steam it and clean it thoroughly.
  9. Sprinkle with soil, but so that it remains airy and light (do not tamp!), And some of the roots and the neck should be visible.

This completes the resuscitation operations. It remains only to provide proper care, preventing re-flooding.

As a rule, after transplanting, the orchid begins to bloom after 2 years.

If the flower was poured at home

Here the algorithm of actions is the same as in the case of the gulf in the store. Let's repeat it briefly:

  1. We carefully remove the orchid.
  2. We cut off the rotten roots, clean and disinfect the remains.
  3. We leave the plant to dry for a day in any empty container.
  4. Preparing a new pot and substrate. We place an orchid in it.

But what if, after removing the rotten roots, they realized that there were no healthy ones left? Then they need to be increased:

  1. We dry the orchid with the treated cut points for 2 hours.
  2. We breed a root growth stimulator and immerse a flower in it for 20 minutes.
  3. After a specified amount of time, take out the orchid and immerse it in boiled water at room temperature with 1 tablet of activated carbon dissolved in it.
  4. All. It remains only to wait, periodically adding water. It can be sweetened with honey or sugar syrup, and the plant itself can be treated with growth stimulants. As soon as the roots grow 5-6 cm, the orchid can be moved to a permanent residence in a pot with a substrate.

The stem should not touch the water when growing roots! It must be fixed at a height of 1-2 cm from its surface.

How to properly moisturize

The orchid is always watered when it needs it, without being guided by a schedule!

What determines the watering time:

  • type of orchid;
  • microclimate;
  • moisture capacity of the substrate;
  • landing method;
  • pot size;
  • the state of the plant itself.

Owners of phalaenopsis, cymbidium, pafiopedilum orchids should be guided by the appearance of perspiration on the walls of the pot. Same, who grows vanda without a substrate, you need to organize daily spraying of the roots.

And for those who grow Cattleya, odontoglossum, ondicium, dendrobium, it is worth watering the orchid only after the soil is completely dry. Typically, the frequency of watering varies from 2 to 3 times a week. But this is not a rule for scheduling.

You need to use only settled water at room temperature! There should be no tap watering (including the so-called "hot shower" method), otherwise the plant will simply die.

Orchid watering methods:

  • Immersion. A pot with an orchid is placed in a bowl with pre-filtered / boiled water. Immerse slowly so as not to damage the root system. As soon as the substrate is well saturated, the orchid needs to be removed and placed in another container so that the glass has excess moisture. Having got rid of excess water, returning the flower to its usual place.
  • Using a watering can with a thin spout. Here it is important to control the pressure by directing it to the inside of the pot. It is important to completely saturate the substrate. As soon as moisture began to stand out on the pallet, stop watering and drain the excess liquid.

    Avoid getting liquid on the growth points and the inner parts of the leaves.

  • Spraying the roots. It is used when growing an orchid without a substrate. Water is applied with a spray to the roots until their color turns to a deep green.
  • Under the summer shower. It is a rare practice to place an orchid pot outside the window. So the conditions for the flower to some extent approach the natural tropical. Cannot be used often.

Watering errors:

  • the use of "hard" tap water, settled, but not filtered or unboiled;
  • adding oxalic acid to water;
  • regular watering with rain or melt water.

We recommend watching a video on when and how to properly water orchids:

Care after elimination of the consequences and prevention of recurrence of the problem

It is easier to prevent flooding than to cure the plant for it later. For prevention, you just need to follow the basic rules of care:

  • Water competently according to one of the above schemes.
  • Feed on time, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are especially important. But it is better not to use nitrogen-containing substances. This will lead to a lack of flowering and a set of excess leaf mass.

    Remember that after an overflow, the plant especially needs additional feeding to recover.

One of the most common problems with growing an orchid is the bay. Fortunately, the plant can be saved, and in the future, you can begin to water properly. It is worth not forgetting to intensively feed the orchid after the overflow, so that it recovers faster.

Watch the video: GUARANTEED. How to SOLVE Wet Soggy Yard, How to Install a French Drain (August 2022).