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We build a shed for a summer residence with our own hands quickly and inexpensively

We build a shed for a summer residence with our own hands quickly and inexpensively



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Of course, without a barn on a personal plot is quite difficult. Fold the same garden tool. Seeds. Harvested. Bike. A wheelbarrow. And a lot more.

So that all this does not drag the house, there is a barn. Of course, you can hire builders and they will do everything for you. But it is quite possible to make a shed with your own hands, if you know how a nail differs from a screw.

It will be much cheaper. True, you have to spend a little time and work with your hands and head.

Barn for giving

Of course, a barn made of wood is cheaper. And it is much easier to make it than a stone one. If you use quality wood and process it properly, such a barn will last 100 years.

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Determining the place

You should start building a barn with choosing a place. It is advisable to build it closer to home. First of all, so that when you perform all kinds of work in the barn, you can see the entrance to the house. And preferably the entrance to the site. Again, imagine that you need to run to the barn for firewood for the fireplace, and it is raining outside.

A standard barn measures 3x6 meters. The material from which the shed is built is timber and boards. The foundation is columnar. The roof is pitched.

Shed foundation

To mark the foundation on the ground, you need a tape measure (the longer the better), several sharpened pegs, a rope and something with which the pegs can be hammered. Ax or hammer. Everything is simple here, you just need to make sure that the corners are right. To do this, measure the diagonals.

You need to dig as many holes under the foundation posts as you plan on. The distance between the pits is approximately 1.5 meters. This is if a 100x100 mm bar is used for the walls of the shed.

If the block is larger, for example, 150, and the floorboard is five, then the distance may be greater. The depth of the fossa is 600-7 mm.

Fill in the finished hole with a layer of sand and gravel mixture of 10 centimeters, and put the posts of bricks.

It is good to reinforce the corner and central posts with steel pins. After the posts are ready, they need to be plastered. Before filling the posts, you need to treat them with a special mastic for waterproofing.

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The lower frame of the barn

In order to work with a bar, you will need wooden trestles. Chop them together - they will come in handy for sawing wood anyway.

First of all, we make a base from a bar for the entire frame of the barn. The beams are joined to the floor of the log. For this, neat cuts are made strictly in size, and the excess is knocked out with an ax.

The timber that is used for logs must be treated with special fire-bio protection. The timber, of course, is not laid directly on the foundation brick, but on the waterproofing. Which consists of two pieces of roofing material.

A steel pin with a diameter of 10 mm is installed in the bar. A hole of the same diameter should be made in the bar that will be installed vertically.

The timber should stand flush on the base. The front vertical bars are 3 meters high. Rear bars - 2.3 meters in order for us to get a ramp. The ramp angle is 30 degrees.

Upper barn frame

It cannot be done without a scaffold. Therefore, in advance, you should put together the goats-forests.

The vertical beams are leveled and fixed with props. After that, the upper part of the frame is mounted from the scaffolding. We attach the timber to the front and back of the shed.

The joints of the timber should be secured with steel corners. We fix the corners with self-tapping screws. Now we install the crossbars. We fasten them in the same way with corners using self-tapping screws, and from the end we hammer 200 mm nails through a vertical bar.

Rafters and floor

We start with the floor. We lay on the floor on the beams - the logs of the floorboards. Pre-processing them with protection. And we fix it. With a nail or self-tapping screw. When the laying is finished, the floor is treated with a plane.

For the rafters, use the same board as for the floor. First, the length is measured, not forgetting that it should be larger than the size of the barn, since the rafter should be overhang. The front is 300mm and the back is 200mm. Fellings are made in the places of supports. The rafters are installed and secured. The step of the rafters is 50 cm.

Everything is with the frame. Now the crate should be stuffed onto the rafters. The distance between the boards depends on what you will be covering the barn with.

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Barn sheathing

So we got to the wall cladding. An ordinary board of 25 mm is taken and stuffed onto the walls in the American way. That is, the boards are stuffed from bottom to top with an overlap. The overlap is small - 3 cm. As a result, there are no cracks.

The boards are stuffed in a circle, starting from the front. Boards are set according to the level.

Barn roof

Well, fixing the slate on the roof or ondulin is a simple matter. It should only be remembered that this is also desired from below from the corner, and an overlap is made, both vertically and horizontally. Lay the slate in rows. First, the first row from corner to corner, then the next.


Watch the video: A Shed You Can Build in a Few Hours Timelapse 2x4 Basics EZ Shed Build (August 2022).