We grow a high yield of tomatoes in the open field

We grow a high yield of tomatoes in the open field

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I have been an avid gardener for many years. Now everything is clear to me, but when I just started, I had to study a lot of specialized literature and consult with a large number of experienced gardeners. I want to share my experience, many readers may find my information useful.

First you need to choose the right seeds for your open field, taking into account the ripening time and frost resistance required for your region. And in the future, it is advisable to use seeds harvested independently.

Now you need to check the seeds for usefulness. Fill them with warm water with potassium permanganate added to it. Throw away seeds without regret - they will not germinate. The rest must be soaked for germination. I do it like this: I wrap the seeds in a handkerchief, moisten them with warm water, put them in a plastic bag and put them in the refrigerator for hardening. After two days, I transfer it to a warm place. Usually, on the third day, the seeds germinate and they can already be planted.

I buy ready-made soil mixture for seedlings, but any gardener can prepare it himself: take one part of the garden soil, peat and humus and mix everything. Add two glasses of ash to one bucket of the finished mixture. Now you can proceed to sowing seedlings. The most optimal time for sowing is late February - early March. I plant it in special peat cups, so that then immediately plant it in the ground.

But it can also be planted in boxes. The planting pattern is indicated on the seed bags, usually they are planted 2 by 2 cm, the preferred depth is 1 cm.After planting, be it cups or boxes, they must be watered, covered with foil, put in a warmer place. Check for seedlings regularly. As soon as they appeared, the film must be removed and the planting boxes must be rearranged in a bright place - on the windowsill, the table by the window, etc. After the appearance of two real leaves, the plants must be transplanted into separate pots, deepening to the cotyledon leaves. To make the roots more branched, the central root can be pinched by one third.

On average, seedlings are grown from 45 to 80 days. Approximately two to three weeks before planting on the garden bed, you need to start hardening the plants - watering is significantly reduced and accustomed to direct sunlight, the plants are taken out onto the balcony, or the window is often left open.

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Growing tomatoes in the open field

So it's time to plant our seedlings in the garden. Think in advance about the place for the garden. It is desirable that onions, carrots, cabbage or legumes grow here earlier. Choose a place that is sunny and protected from the wind. Never plant tomatoes in damp, low-lying areas, as this environment will negatively affect their roots. Also, you should not plant tomatoes in places where potatoes and tomatoes were previously grown, since there is a high probability of infection of tomatoes with late blight.

Experts advise starting the preparation of the garden in the fall. Humus is scattered over it, if the soil is too acidic, then ash is added. They're digging everything up. It is advisable to leave large lumps at the top, then the snow will linger in this place, as a result of which the soil will be well moistened here. In the spring, you need to dig up the bed, crushing all the lumps of earth.

I prepare the beds about a week or two before planting the seedlings in the ground. Before digging the garden bed, I fill it with humus, about one or two buckets per 1 sq. m. Then I dig it up, carefully crushing the clods and covering it with dark plastic so that the earth warms up.

Now you can plant seedlings on the garden prepared for it. Depending on the weather, I transplant tomatoes from May 15 to June 5, preferably in cloudy weather... I chose the most convenient planting scheme for myself: I plant in two rows with a distance of about 30-40 cm between the bushes. If the variety of tomatoes is with tall bushes, then I increase the distance to 50 cm. Before planting, I water the holes with a solution of potassium permanganate. I try to deepen the plants a little so that later roots will form on the trunk, which has been dug in with the ground, which strengthens the root system. I set up a peg for a garter of plants.

Immediately after planting, I water the seedlings abundantly with warm water. Sprinkle the ground around the bushes with sawdust or chopped straw. This will provide moisture retention and eliminate the need to loosen the soil frequently. For about ten days, while the tomatoes take root after planting in open ground, I do not water them.

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Growing and caring for tomatoes

Well, our seedlings were successfully planted and took root in the beds. Now the main concern is watering - often, but little by little. It is also necessary to monitor the weeds and remove them in time, then the soil will warm up well in the sun. You also need to regularly loosen the soil to a depth of about 5 cm.

Usually, a plant is formed into one stem, on which there should be three inflorescences. The stepsons are constantly removed, after the fruits are formed on the last inflorescence, the top is cut off. Several years ago I tried a new method that significantly increases the yield of tomatoes.

It consists in the following: I leave the lower stepsons, when they grow up enough, I remove the leaves from them and cover part of the stem with earth. After a while, the covered stem takes root. Thus, from one bush, three are obtained, respectively, and the yield is much larger. I delete the rest of the stepsons.

By the way, they can be used to prepare a good remedy for insects gnawing on plant leaves. To do this, 4 kg of stepsons or leaves need to be poured with 10 liters of water and boiled for 10-15 minutes, then add 40-50 g of laundry soap. Spray the plants affected by pests with the cooled solution. And for the prevention of late blight, I spray the tomatoes with a garlic solution.

I do it like this: 200 g of chopped cloves of garlic need to be poured with a liter of water and insisted for 2-3 days, strain and dilute it with 10 liters of water. Spray tomato bushes with the resulting product.

The fruits of tomatoes do not require a lot of water, but if the soil is dry, then the green fruits begin to rot. Nightly watering is optimal, about half a liter of water for each bush, after watering the soil should be sprinkled with sawdust or earth. Please note that you cannot water abundantly on tomatoes with dry soil, otherwise the fruits will begin to crack.

Tomatoes can be grown without top dressing, but it is necessary to increase the yield. For the whole season I do several dressings.

20 days after planting in the ground, I do root feeding with a mullein (dilute a liter of liquid mullein with 10 liters of water and add a glass of ash), for each bush, half a liter of fertilizing. For 20-30 days before the final ripening of the fruits, I repeat the feeding. In order for the fertilizers to penetrate deeper into the ground, I pierce the soil in the aisles with a pitchfork. In order to improve the fruit set, I spray the bushes with boric solution (I dilute 1 g of boric acid in a liter of hot water).

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Notes to the gardener

The tomato harvest can be preserved until the New Year and even more. For long-term storage, it is better to take fruits with a stalk weighing 50-70 g, wrap each in paper and store in boxes, the bottom of which is covered with sawdust.

Watch the video: SMART FARM large scale tomato farming in Tharaka Nithi county (May 2022).