Lavender pruning

Lavender pruning

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Because lavender reproduces only on new wood,if the old wooden parts are cut, the plant could even die, as lacking in new gems. On the other hand lavender tends to increase the woody part in spite of the foliage over time.The cuts must be made with the utmost care, using well-maintained tools: shears and scissors they must be equipped with very sharp blades, in such a way as to be able to apply clean, sharp cuts (obliquely) without burrs or dangling filaments.A cut not made according to the law, it is good not to forget it, very easily exposes the plant to diseases, infections or attacks by parasites and fungi. For the same reason, all used instruments must first be disinfected and cleaned very carefully.Dab the wounds and protect the plant from parasite attacks

Once the cut is made, the procured “wound” must be buffered with some healing mastic, which serves to close it and at the same time constitutes an excellent barrier against pests. Regarding the mastic it must be said that although recommended and useful, the mastic is only scarcely used because of the little practicality of the treatment, the cost and the general rusticity of the lavender (if positioned in places with many hours of direct sun).
There pruning of lavender requires vigorous intervention even in the month of March, when the vegetative restart occurs (and not after flowering, in August, even more so for young plants). It is a species, in fact, quite sensitive to frost.
The spicastri exposed on the dried flowers will have to be cut, with gardener's scissors, to three or four centimeters from the base. An excessive loss of energy can be reduced, however, by eliminating the flowers: in this way, in fact, the plant blocks the production of seed.
The purpose of pruning is to allow the plant to grow healthy and lush, with branches and flowers more robust and less sensitive to bad weather. In general, pruning is aimed at eliminating the flowering stems, while the trimming allows the removal of dry, diseased, broken or otherwise unhealthy parts. The thinning, in particular, consists in the removal of branches, fruits or flowers considered in excess, while the actual removal of branches, shoots and branches, performed with a cut to the net base, is called suppression.

The purposes of pruning: to promote ventilation and lighting

Another goal of pruning is to allow lavender to optimize light reception of the sun for each of its components, as well as of promote the best possible ventilation. Peeling involves removing part of the leaves, while trimming, which occurs strictly in winter, consists in removing the apical nodes of a branch.
Any adventitious buds located on the trunk can be eliminated through the scacchiatura, while with the shortening a distal part of the branch will be removed. By cutting branches and leaves there will be the possibility of giving rise to a constant and qualitatively high production, reaching a perfect balance between the reproductive phase and the vegetative phase, and an aesthetic and functional harmony between roots and foliage.
If it is true, in short, that lavender is a rather simple plant to cultivate, it is equally true that pruning must be carried out respecting some rules with precision, to avoid causing damage to the branches. Speaking of branches, for aesthetic purposes they can be bowed using the bending process: an operation aimed at making the vegetative development less rapid.
It does not require cuts even the inclination (except for very large branches), which differs from the curvature due to the fact that the inclination of the branch is performed to facilitate the production of new branches. Finally, through the twisting, the branches are not cut, but partially rotated around their own axis to facilitate fruiting as a result of the partial rupture of the woody vessels.

Lavender pruning: Lavender flowers

Pruning, as mentioned above, is mainly done to have a more vigorous plant the following season and above all to have lavenders that produce beautiful flowers. The flowering period varies depending on the variety, as well as the morphology of the flowers and the color shades. One of the most frequent morphological differences is in the morphology of the floral spike which can be more or less long depending on the variety. In the lavender stoechas for example the flowers have a convex appearance and the spike inflorescences are shorter than those of other lavender varieties. Also at the top of the ears there is a tuft of purple bratee with a very strong color.
In other varieties, such as for example the lavandula angustifolia, the flower is longer with real floral stems composed of groups of flowers that together form a spike inflorescence. In addition to these two very different examples, there are also many other varieties of lavenders with different and very beautiful characteristics and it is worth looking for particular varieties, perhaps on the web, to find something unique.


  1. Zulmaran

    In my opinion you are not right. I offer to discuss it. Write to me in PM.

  2. Nell

    I advise you to try

  3. Quint

    Let's Talk on this topic.

  4. Cnut

    You commit an error. I can prove it. Write to me in PM, we will talk.

  5. Skeat

    I completely agree. Bullshit. But opinions, I see, are divided.

Write a message