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Hyacinths bulbs

Hyacinths bulbs



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Hyacinths bulbs


The Hyacinth is a plant that belongs to the Giglio family. It is a bulbous plant of European or Asian origin, therefore it prefers a rather temperate climate.
It has an excellent resistance as far as cultivation is concerned, both in open soil and in pots. It should however be kept in mind that for outdoor cultivation after some years the bulb begins to suffer giving so little flowering. For its beauty it is used to embellish flower beds or gardens. The Hyacinth bulb looks like a large red or pink onion depending on the color the flowers will take. The most commercially available is undoubtedly the Eastern Hyacinth which presents a great variety of colors ranging from deep pink, to red, to orange to white and to end up in lilac in rare cases there is also a very intense blue.
The Hyacinth flower is tubular with an end that ends in a star and also has a length that can reach up to 15 centimeters. The leaves appear at the base of the bulb almost to create a halo. They are fleshy leaves of an intense dark green color that lightens as the plant germinates. These recalled by the solar rays grow vertically to the plant. The scent of the flowers is intense and very pleasant. THE hyacinth bulbs they can be used to embellish outdoor balconies or window sills but also to make your bedroom more romantic. Who owns a garden can create with these magnificent bulbs, colorful and refined flowerbeds.

Cultivation and planting



THE hyacinths they can be planted around October - November, when it starts to get cold. As far as cultivation is concerned we can say that this bulb has its best features in the open air. In fact, because of its natural tendency to the sun, the Hyacinth bulbs tend to turn towards the rays of the sun. If the cultivation of the hyacinths it happens inside the own house we remember that the plant in phase of flowering will not be put in zones with penombre.La best place for the Hyacinth will be therefore behind the glasses of a window or a balcony. The fundamental rule for these plants must be to not place them near sources of very high heat such as radiators or fireplaces as the plant would not resist and tend to dry out the buds. In fact, in the summer periods and therefore in the hottest months of the year, the hyacinth plant should be positioned not in direct contact with the sun's rays in order not to dry out the flowered bulb. For the reproduction of the bulbs instead you will have to wait for the autumn. When the main bulb has fruited other small bulbs, these will have to be put in small earthenware pots to allow a good transpiration with a few centimeters of soil.
The distance between one bulb and another must be sufficient to allow the growing plant not to suffer the space. When all the hyacinth bulbs are transplanted, they will be taken to a cool, dim place to improve root and leaf development. This phase generally lasts fifteen days. Once all the small leaves are ticked and you see the color of the bulb sprouting from the ground by a couple of centimeters, you can move the plant in a warm and above all sunny place. In a short time there will be a magnificent flowering.





































































THE GIACINTO IN BRIEF

Family, genus, species

Asparagaceae, Hyacinthus, about 30 species
Type of plant Bulbosa flower, lively
Flower color Pink, light blue, yellow, white, purple, red
Habit erected
Use Flowerbed, border, vase, forcing
Height at maturity From 15 to 45 cm
Growth rate fast
Maintenance average
Water needs average
Rusticitа Very rustic
Exposure Sun-shade
Ground Well drained and rich; not demanding
Fertilizer Liquid, rich in phosphorus and potassium
soil pH Alkaline or neutral
Soil moisture average
Propagation Collecting bulbils

Ground



When planting a Hyacinth bulb, make sure that the soil is a good mixture of minerals and organic material. The soil must therefore be fertile and well worked so that the bulb is comfortable but above all well planted since its roots are not deep.
It should be irrigated often not with large doses of water but possibly with enough water to make the soil moist. We must remember that the hyacinth bulb fears the large amount of water as it tends to get moldy with stagnation. So before flowering and even later, if cultivated in pots, care should be taken that in the saucers there is no water.
Hyacinth is not particularly demanding in terms of soil: it grows well almost everywhere. All we need to do is pay a little attention if our soil is extremely clayey and compact: this can cause water stagnation and the onset of rot at bulb level. In that case it is good, before implantation, to extract the substrate. On the bottom we will create a draining layer with gravel. We will also be able to make the compote lighter and more aerated by mixing sand and organic soil conditioner.

Pruning


As for the pruning of hyacinths it is necessary to know that this plant has no particular needs. In fact, like all bulbs, it does not need any special care. It will be sufficient to cut all the dry and color-free flowers with a clean and disinfected scissors. This operation serves to help the plant so that it does not consume energy for the next blooms as we remember that the Hyacinth bulb is a perennial plant.

Where to buy them



Hyacinth is now a widespread plant thanks to the enormous quantity of requests made by lovers of this species. Hyacinths can be found in all specialty stores such as garden shops but also online. In the first we find them displayed in small earthenware pots or other breathable materials with very bright colors. Each vase recalls the color of the bulb flowers. They are decorated vases that are the size of a glass or a little more. On the other hand, it is possible to buy bulbs that are generally of different species and colors grouped in a single sachet.


































Exposure of the hyacinth



The ideal exposure ranges from full sun to partial shade. In the northern regions and in the mountain areas it is undoubtedly to favor a warm and luminous position that will help us to avoid the onset of rottenness during the wettest months of the year. In the southern regions and on the coasts it is good to place these bulbs in a more sheltered area: the hot and persistent sun can cause burns on the leaves or considerably shorten the life of the corollas.

Plant in the middle of hyacinth


They are planted in autumn, roughly between October and November. We work in depth the area and we insert the bulbs to around 10-12 cm of depth, also very near: the important thing is that they do not touch one another. We cover with soil and compact. All that remains is to wait for spring and vegetative awakening.

Potted plant


Grow i hyacinths in pots It is very simple and it is possible to obtain the flowering in the central winter months, when these flowers are particularly appreciated for their sweet perfume and bright colors.
If we follow the natural cycle we will put the bulbs in the autumn: usually they are joined by 3 or 4, very narrow, in a single vase. Cover them with light soil, leaving all the tips uncovered. We lightly irrigate and place everything in a cool, dark room. When we see the leaves and the flower stem appear, we move everything into a bright and slightly heated room (about 10 ° C). Finally, in full bloom, let's keep it in the rooms where we usually stay.
However, we would like to remind you that the geophytes grown in pots run out soon and are unlikely to return to bloom in the same container: at the end of the cycle we give them to those who have a garden.

How to get winter flowering?



Hyacinths are the most used flowers for forcing: the bulbs can be grown in pots with soil or in special jugs with water only.
It must begin in late summer by placing the bulbs, closed in a bag, in the "vegetable" compartment of the refrigerator, for about a month and a half. They are then transferred to the jar with slightly damp soil or on the carafe, in an unheated room (about 6 ° C) and dark for about 2 months. Finally we transport to the inhabited premises, making sure they are well lit and maintaining the temperature around 18 ° C.
For those who use the jug it is important to remember that the water must absolutely not touch the bulb (it must be reached independently from the roots) on pain of rotting.

Crop care


Care in care allows us to have abundant blooms, year after year.
From this point of view it is important to cut the faded flower stems as soon as possible, to avoid that they go unnecessarily into seed. The leaves, on the other hand, should be left on the spot until they are completely dry. From the beginning of the vegetative period until dormancy it is useful to distribute a fertilizer with a high phosphorus and potassium content.

Pests and diseases



The most dangerous enemy of hyacinth is gray mold: it is caused by excessive irrigation and insufficient drainage.
For the rest it is only necessary to fear the gastropods: they feed willingly on stems and leaves, often causing serious damage. We prevent with special products or preparing traps based on beer or ash.

Propagation


Enriching our hyacinth collection can be easy by picking and "raising" the bulbils. Unfortunately, some varieties and hybrids produce few and very slowly; we can, however, facilitate the process in this way:
- With a knife we ​​make a cross cut at the base of the bulb. We insert inside the matches so that it remains open.
- We let it dry for a few hours, then we normally put it to dwelling.
- After the flowering and drying of the leaves we extract the bulb from the ground: the cloves should have developed right where we made the cut.
- Take them and put them in a box with well-drained soil, but rich in organic substance.
- For the next 2/3 years we distribute a fertilizer rich in phosphorus during the growing season.
- From the fourth year they should be ready for flowering.
Watch the video
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THE GIACINTO IN BRIEF


Natural cycle

Forced cycle
Flowering March April
December to February
plant October December
August September
Refrigerator for forcing
August-September, about 45 days
Forcing in a cool, dark room
October-November, about 60 days
Drying leaves April May
February March