Macroterme turf

Macroterme turf

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Question: Can I sow macrothermal essences in my garden?

good morning, I am writing to you because I have great difficulties with the lawn in my garden, the place where I am is Torchiara, province of Salerno (4 km from Agropoli) last year I planted lawn (microthermal), but it didn't give me never the desired results, in spring I re-seeded it, obtaining a good result, but as soon as the hot patatrac came, most of it turned yellow and dried up. I state that the garden is exposed all day in the sun, the soil is clayey with 10 cm on the surface reported and I have little water to irrigate. So I would like to plant some types of macrotherm resistant to this type of habitat, what do you recommend sowing? Thanks in advance

Macroterme turf: Answer: a meadow of weeds

Dear Gs,
preparing a new turf is not easy, especially in the conditions mentioned by you: direct sun, clay soil, a thin layer of good soil, drought. Even in much better conditions, it may happen that summer ruins the turf irreparably, especially if it is not yet well stabilized. The meadows are made up of small ground cover plants, which produce tufts of stems and leaves, supported by a shallow but fairly large root system; this type of vegetation in general, if well developed and rooted, can easily withstand even the summer heat and drought, unless it is a whole week without water. There are different types of plants for turf, which have different degrees of resistance to heat and sun; in general, a sturdy turf, even if yellowed due to heat and dryness, tends to recover in autumn, when the rains arrive; this is because the root system resists alive under the ground, and when the cool damp arrives it starts up again and produces new leaves. Clear that the lawn must already be well developed and rooted to the arrival of summer heat. For this reason, lawns are usually installed at the beginning of autumn, or in late winter or early spring; it is sufficient that the healthy minimum temperatures exceed 10-12 ° C, and you can begin to prepare the soil and sow. The soil should be well worked with a motor hoe, so that it is rich and porous, adding manure and sand, together with the soil suitable for lawns, which contains substances able to improve the germination of the seeds. So it is sown, taking advantage of the typical spring or autumn climate: a cool and humid climate, with rain and not too hot air. In this way, even if the water does not arrive for irrigation, the seeds and young plants find all the water they need from nature. When watering the new lawn, it is important to favor a development of the root system in depth, which is obtained by watering deeply at intervals of about 3-4 days; waiting for the ground to dry, so that the roots are forced to sink into the earth to look for water. If, on the other hand, we water a little every day, the roots tend to widen, remaining very superficial, giving rise to a lawn that will be subject to all the vagaries of the climate, not being protected by the ground. A well-developed turf, sown in February-March (depending on the climate), when the heat arrives, in May or June, will already be strong enough to withstand the heat without major problems.
Having said that, certainly in conditions of heat and drought it is good to choose a seed that tolerates these conditions well, rather than a classic "lawn"; even in non-prohibitive climatic conditions, less demanding plants are often used, which do not require constant and continuous care.
For the area where you live macrothermal essences are ideal, as they should not withstand an intense winter cold. The most common are cynodon (or gramigna), paspalum and zoysa. Clearly this is not the typical wheatgrass that plagues our lawns, vegetable gardens, flowerbeds as weeds, but of improved varieties, with more compact development, and well resistant to heat, sun and drought.